1. What is Gold and what are its basic uniqueness?
Gold is a metal. Its scientific name is Aurum (Au).
Au= Aurum,
Atomic No. 79,
Melting Point 1064.43 C,
Boiling Point 2807 C.
A child finds a shiny rock in a creek, thousands of years ago, and the human race is introduced to gold for the first time. Gold was first discovered as shining, yellow nuggets. Gold became a part of every human culture. Gold was the first metal widely known to our species. Gold has always been powerful stuff. The earliest history of human interaction with gold is long lost to us, but its association with the gods, with immortality, and with wealth itself is common to many cultures throughout the world. Gold has always had value to humans, even before it was money. The 'value' of gold was accepted over the world. Gold mines are found in different parts of the world. South Africa is one such country where Gold is available in abundance. In India, Kolar and Raichur Gold mines are the famous places where gold is mined.
2. How did gold achieve a significance class in dignity and worship?
The "Gold of Troy" treasure hoard excavated in Turkey and dating to the era 2450 -2600 B.C., show the range of gold-work from delicate jewellery to a gold gravy boat weighing a full troy pound. This was a time when gold was highly valued, but had not yet become money itself. Rather, it was owned by the powerful and well-connected, or made into objects of worship, or used to decorate sacred locations.
3. What substances are used in the purification process of gold?
A combination of Hydrochloric Acid and Nitric Acid are used for purifying the gold.
For polishing gold Potassium Cyanide is used.
4. Why do gold prices keep fluctuating?
Gold is traded at International Market. Hence according to the International Market situation, the prices of gold keep fluctuating.
More Demand and Scarcity of supply leads to price hike and vice-a-versa.
5. What is KDM with reference to gold? What are the benefits of KDM?
KDM is a metal. It is also known as Kadmium. The scientific code is 48 Cd 112.41.
Cd = Cadmium
Atomic No. 48,
Melting Point 320.9 C,
Boiling Point 765 C.
KDM: Gold Jewellery from some places are marked with a KDM stamp which means that the Jewellery was soldered with Cadmium. Cadmium called 'Kadium' in some places and marked as KDM was traditionally used in soldering of gold jewellery for its good properties of liquidity and melting at lower temperatures,Jewellers in many parts of the world now use gold solders,which are free from Cadmium.Also note that using any types of gold solder either KDM (Cadmium) or other gold solder, to make the jewellery does not guarantee the purity of gold, as the purity is a representation of the percentage of gold in any metal. Cadmium - is used in soldering gold.Control of KDM soldering on gold may vary from one country to another.
Recently Americans and Europeans are using Zinc in place of KDM in jewellery making.
30 Zn 65.38
Zn = Zinc,
Automic No. 30,
Melting Point 419.58 C,
Boiling Point 907 C.
Zinc too evaporates during summer just like KDM. But there will not be any harm to artisans working on it. Research is under process about the flexibility of using Zinc replacing KDM.
6. Distinguish between 22Karat and 24 Karat gold? How to find out the difference between them?
The carat (abbreviation ct) is a measure of the purity of gold and platinum alloys. In the United States and Canada, the spelling karat is now solely used for the measure of purity, while carat solely refers to the measure of mass weight (see Carat). As a measure of purity, one karat is purity by weight:
Where,
X is the carat rating of the material,
Mg is the mass of pure gold or platinum in the material, and
Mm is the total mass of the material.
Therefore 24-carat gold is pure (100% Au w/w), 18-carat gold is 75% gold, 12-carat gold is 50% gold, and so forth.
Historically, in England the carat was divisible into four grains, and the grain was divisible into four quarts. For example, a gold alloy of 381/384 fineness (that is, 99.2% purity) could have been described as being 23-carat, 3-grain, 1-quart gold. The karat system is increasingly being complemented or superseded by the millesimal fineness system in which the purity of precious metals is denoted by parts per thousand of pure metal in the alloy. The most common carats used for gold in bullion, jeweler making and goldsmiths are:
• 24 karat (millesimal fineness 999)
• 22 karat (millesimal fineness 916)
• 20 karat (millesimal fineness 833)
• 18 karat (millesimal fineness 750)
• 15 karat (millesimal fineness 625)
• 14 karat (millesimal fineness 585)
• 10 karat (millesimal fineness 417)
• 9 karat (millesimal fineness 375)
22/22K - a quality mark indicating the purity of gold. The first 22 signifies the "Skin purity" of gold jewellery and the second 22 signifies that after melting purity of the gold jewellery will be 22K (22 Karat) or 91.67% of pure gold. This symbol or stamp is very popular on the gold jewellery business in Asian countries like India, Pakistan, Bangladesh, Nepal, Yemen, and Gulf Countries.
This practice was pioneered and introduced in the early mid-1980s by Nemichand Bamalwa & Sons of Kolkata, India, sparking a revolution in India as it forced jewellers to indicate correctly the after-melting purity, and heightened consumer awareness made it a most sought-after stamp or quality mark.
There are few ways to find out the difference between 22karat and 24karat gold. They are:
* Difference in weight (24karat gold’s weigh 19.4gm/cm3)
* Using Karat machine.
7. What does Wastage mean in jewellery making terminology?
Goldsmith get gold bar from which they prepare variety of jewellery.During the process some particles will be left out as residue. This residue is known as “Wastage” in jewellery making terminology. Using residues again gold bar is made and goldsmith has the legitimate right. That means that the goldsmith needs 115gm gold to prepare a jewellery of 100gm. The extra 15gm is considered as reward for the work done.
The hardness or softness of gold depends on the purity of the same. The purity of the gold is measured in terms of karat. There is no relation between Wastage and purify of the gold. We come across Wastage even in KDM.
8. Why gold is found in different colors?
There are several reasons for gold to appear in different colors.
Gold is available in several different colors. The most popular is yellow gold, followed by white gold and rose gold, though other gold colors are sometimes also available such as bronze, red and lime gold.
Jewellery can also be made using a combination of different gold colors. These jewellery items are sometimes called two-tone, three-tone or multi-colored gold. The gold content of yellow gold is measured in the same way it is measured in for example white gold. So an 18kt white gold ring contains 75% pure gold, just as 18kt yellow gold contains 75% pure gold.
The difference in color between yellow, white and rose is determined by the metals used in the alloy mix. As the color difference is due to the metal components in the alloy mix, the color of yellow gold and rose gold will not chip, fade or wear off with usage.
Yellow gold is made by mixing pure gold with alloy metals such as copper and zinc.
Rose gold is made using a mix of pure gold with alloys including copper. The copper provides the rose-reddish color.
White gold is an alloy of gold and some white metals such as silver and palladium.
Traditionally nickel is used in white gold.
When white gold rings are new they can be coated with another white metal called Rhodium. Rhodium is a metal very similar to platinum and rhodium shares many of the properties of platinum including its white color.
The rhodium plating is used to make the white gold look whiter. The natural color of white gold is actually a light grey color. The rhodium is very white and hard, but it does wear away eventually. To keep a white gold ring looking its best it should be re-rhodium plated approximately each 12 to 18 months.
9. What are the methods of gold polishing? Does it effect in any way in terms of weightage of gold?
Gold can be polished in two different methods.
1. Hot Process: Hot process is also known as Electro plating process. In this process 24 Karat-gold sheets are attached to the anode end and gold ornament which is to be polished is attached to the cathode end. When these electrodes (cathode and anode) are dipped in a container filled with potassium cyanide, 24 Karat Gold in the anode melts. Because of attraction, the gold gets attached to the surface of gold ornament in the cathode. It means 5 to 6 microns of gold layer gets attached on the ornament surface. In this way gold ornaments are polished.
2. In this process the weight of the ornament remains the same.
1 Milligram = 1000 micros.
Diagram
Cold Process: When a gold ornament which is to polished is dipped in a liquid called Aqua regia, the gold melts in the liquid. The outer layer of the gold melts and we can see the inner layer.
10. Why is gold allergic to some people?What is the actual meaning behind the concept of "Karang" or discoloration of gold in jewellery usage?
Gold is believed to be good for health. People do use it as energy booster. During Coating process the gold jewellery is being dipped in Potassium Cyanide Solution. After this process it is cleaned properly. But in rare case, Potassium Cyanide Solution particle would be left out in the jewellery. In that case only people get affected by allergy reaction.
While Gold loses its shining gradually on usage is referred to as “Karang”. Due to geographical climatic changes this thing happens. Similarly because of body sweat as well as washing gold in soap water can lead to Oxidization which in turn results in gold turning into black color.
11. Does daily usage of gold jewellery leads to corrosion of the metal?
Because of divergence all metals corrode. Gold is not an exception. So is the case with daily usage of gold leads to lose its weight over a period of time due to corrosion. Meanwhile, the Soap water, Powder, Bleaching Powder, Perfume and other forms of chemical reaction may cause reduction in weight and corrosion of gold quickly.
12. What are the difference between Imitation and Gold? How do we find out the difference?
Firstly, Imitation jewelleries are light weight compared to gold.
Secondly, Imitation loses its color while checking against stone.
Finally, the easiest way is to find the difference by using Karat Machine.
13. Silver known as cheap metal and what does the metal loose it's shining frequently?
Silver is a metal. Scientific name for silver is 47 Ag 107.868
Atomic No. 47,
Melting Point 961.93 C,
Boiling Point 2212 C.
Silver is available in mines. The cost involved in its production and transportation is trivial and so the price of this metal is less costly compared to gold. Due to chemical reactions silver loses its usual shining.
14. What is the procedure to apply golden polish to silver metal?
Electro Plating mechanism is used to give silver a golden polish.
15. Where do we get Diamonds? Why it is very costly?
Diamonds were formed under immense heat and pressure hundreds of miles below the sea level. Volcanic explosions forced them upwards after nearly 100 million years of formation. The diamonds were formed more than 70 million years ago when volcanic explosions brought this diamond bearing ore to the surface. After the cooling of the magma, it solidified into a blue mass, or kimberlite, where the precious rough diamonds are still found today. Rated 10 on the Mohs scale of hardness, diamonds are the hardest substances on earth, but their appeal goes far beyond durability.
Approximately 250 tons of ore must be mined and processed in order to produce a single, one-carat, polished, gem-quality diamond. This is what makes them so valuable and unique. The first diamond mining endeavors were undertaken nearly 4000 years ago in ancient India. Modern mining started in the 19th century in South Africa. Botswana, Russia, South Africa, Angola, Namibia, Australia and Zaire are among the top diamond producing nations, accounting for nearly 80% of the world's rough diamond supply.
16. Where do we get Ruby, Emerald, sapphire?
Ruby is one of the most expensive gems.largest ruby weighed 400 carat and was found in Burma.Many rubies are important part of royal enigma and other famous jewellery.The Bohemian St. Wenzel's crown (Prague), for instance, holds a nonfaceted ruby of about 250 carat.The coloring agent is chrome, sometimes iron. The color is very stable against light and heat. The color distribution is often uneven, in stripes and spots. Cut ruby luster can reach that of a diamond. Often the ruby is clouded by inclusions. These are not classified as faults, but as evidence to the genuineness of the ruby.
Physical Properties of Ruby:
Ruby Color : Varying Red;
Ruby Moh's Hardness : 9.0;
Ruby Density : 3.97-4.05;
Ruby Chemical Composition : Aluminium Oxide;
Ruby Transparency : Transparent to Opaque;
Ruby Refractive Index : 1.762-1.778;
Ruby Dispersion : 0.018;
Ruby Pleochroism : Strong; yellow-red, deep carmine red.
Green beryls are called emerald. Green emerald expresses faithfulness and continuity. The coloring agent is chrome, sometimes vanadium. The color is very stable against light and heat. The color distribution is often irregular; a dark green is most desired. Only the fine specimens are transparent. Often the emerald is clouded by inclusions. These are not classified as faults, but as evidence to the genuineness of the emerald as compared with synthetics.
Physical Properties of Emerald:
Emerald Color: Emerald Green, green and yellowish green;
Emeralds Moh's Hardness: 7.5-8;
Emeralds Density: 2.67-2.78;
Emerald Chemical Composition: Aluminium Berrylium Silicate;
Emeralds Transparency: Transparent to Opaque;
Emeralds Refractive Index: 1.565-1.602;
Emeralds Dispersion: 0.014;
Emeralds Pleochroism: Definite, green, blue, blue green to yellow green.
Sapphire History: Today gemstone quality of all colors except red are called sapphire. Red varieties are called rubies. The various colors of sapphires are qualified by description, green sapphire or yellow sapphire. The coloring agents in blue sapphire are iron and titanium. The color is very stable against light and heat. The most desired color is a cornflower-blue. There is no definite demarcation between ruby and sapphire.
Sapphire Physical Properties:
Sapphire Color: Blue in various hues, colorless, pink, orange, yellow, green, purple and black;
Sapphire Moh's Hardness: 9.0;
Sapphire Density: 3.95-4.03;
Sapphire Chemical Composition: Aluminium Oxide;
Sapphire Transparency: Transparent to Opaque;
Sapphire Refractive Index: 1.762-1.788;
Sapphire Dispersion: 0.018;
Sapphire Pleochroism: Blue; Definite; dark blue, green blue.
17. How are AD, Red, Green, Blue stone being manufactured? Why do they lose price while returning back to the vendor?
Red Stone, Blue Stone, Green Stones are manufactured gems. These are available at very less cost and these stones lose their color and shining over a period of time. Therefore, while returning the jewellery that is embedded with these stones,their original rates are not considered.Further there is a chance of these stones getting damaged while removing it from the jewellery set.
18. Distinguish between AD and Diamond and how to find the difference between them?
AD stands for American Diamond and it resembles natural diamond. We can observe the difference between AD and diamond when they are seen through eye glass.
When posed to sunlight, usually AD shines reflecting 7 colors whereas Diamond shines with white as reflecting color. Moreover, there is difference in terms of their weightage (Diamond weighs 3.50 to 3.53gm/cm3.).
One more distinctive feature of Diamond is that it has got Cutting in both layers i.e., inner layer and outer layer whereas Ad had got only outer layer Cutting.
The following experiment helps us to identify the difference between the two.Take a paper and mark it using black ink. Now place AD on this mark such that the pointed edge of AD is on the mark. When observed through paper the other edge the mark can be seen whereas the mark cannot be seen in diamond.
19. Origin of Corals and Pearls?
The formation of a natural pearl begins when a foreign substance slips into the oyster between the mantle and the shell, which irritates the mantle. The oyster's natural reaction is to cover up that irritant to protect itself. The mantle covers the irritant with layers of the same nacre substance that is used to create the shell. This eventually forms a pearl. So a pearl is a foreign substance covered with layers of nacre. Most pearls that we see in jewellery stores are nicely rounded objects, which are cherished as valuable ones. Not all pearls turn out so well. Some pearls form in an uneven shape -- these are called baroque pearls. Pearls, as you've probably noticed, come in a variety of colors, including white, black, gray, red, blue and green. Most pearls can be found all over the world, but black pearls are indigenous to the South Pacific.
Coral is a plant-like-shape formed by millions of unicellular creatures which live in the bottom of the sea and are called coelenterate (coelenterates). Their name is derived from the long tube which crosses their body; its name is in fact celenterio.
The colony of coelenterates releases a deposit of carbonato di calcio (calcium carbonate) which solidifies and takes various shapes. The most common one is that of a little tree. Centuries ago, the Mediterranean Sea, along the Sicily, Sardinia and Naples coastline, were filled with coral reefs.In fact it was in Sicily and Naples that are art of carving and modeling coral was initially started. There are two types of coral.First type is the false coral, which grows at a depth of about 30/35 meters. At that depth the sun still influences the light and the warmth of the water, so the coral remains whitish and soft; and the real coral, which gets a bull-blood-like color and can be found at a depth of about 70/80 meters. The deeper we go the darker and harder the coral becomes and is more precious.
As both Coral and Pearl are made up of living substances, the calcium element is huge in both gems. Human body temperature and perspiration causes a chemical reaction which makes both the Pearl and coral erode gradually.Hence the pearl loses its shining and color over a period of time.
20. What are birthstones? How are they significant?
Birth stones can be of different types. Along with the Traditional ones, there are Astrological, Mystical, Ayurvedic and a Modern list of stones. While the traditional ones reflect the 15th century traditions, the mystical stones are of Tibetan origin and the Ayurvedic stones, associated with 'Ayurveda' the Indian system of Medicine which have nearly thousands years of rich heritage. Here we have given the Modern list of birthstones adopted in 1912 by the American National Association of Jewellers. Birthstones are various gems associated with the particular calendar months of the year, and are considered lucky to people who are born in those months. Some scholars attribute the origin of the tradition of birthstones to the Breastplate of Aaron.
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Garnet
January ( Capricorn)
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Amethyst
February ( Aquarius )
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Aquamarine
March ( Pisces )
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Diamond
April ( Aries )
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Emerald
May ( Taurus )
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Pearl
June ( Gemini )
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Ruby
July ( Cancer )
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Peridot
August ( Leo )
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Sapphire
September ( Virgo )
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Opal
October ( Libra )
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Topaz
November ( Scorpio )
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Turquoise
December ( Sagittarius)
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21. Sri Navaratna - The Nine Gems
A "Nava Ratna" talisman set is a jewellery piece embedded with nine perfect gems. In the center is a 95% flawless "red lotus" colored 1 carat Burmese RUBY surrounded (clockwise from the top) by flawless diamond, natural pearl, red coral, hessonite, blue sapphire, cat's eye, yellow sapphire, and emerald.
Translation:
1) Ruby for the Sun,
2) Pearl for the Moon,
3) Coral for Mars,
4) Emerald for Mercury,
5) Yellow sapphire for Jupiter,
6) Diamond for Venus,
7) Blue sapphire for Saturn,
8) Hessonite for Rahu (the ascending node of the Moon),
9) Cat's eye for Ketu (the descending node of the Moon),
Note: These gems must be high-born (top quality) and pure in quality and variety.
In this important sloka the words, "sujatyam-amalam" (sujati=high born, and amala=completely pure or flawless) are very significant. According to bona fide Vedic authority only clean top quality gems are considered to be auspicious.
22. What are the other metals used in making jewellery besides gold, silver and diamond?
Apart from Gold and silver, platinum is also being used in jewellery making. It is very expensive when compared to the former two metals. The scientific name of platinum is 78 Pt 195.09.
Pt- Platinum.
Atomic No. 78,
Melting Point 1772 C,
Boiling Point 3827 C.
23. What does Elephant Hair mean? What is its utility?
As the name itself indicates the skin hair or the tail hair of the Elephant can be called as Elephant Hair. Since it has been used as decorative thing, it is being used in designing jewels. In Kerala we get it in abundance.
24. What does Enamel Paint stand for? What are its uses?
The artificial color used in jewellery is usually referred to as Enamel Paint. It is being used in designing on the jewellery. Its purpose is just to get attraction on the jewels just like girl’s applying Nail Enamel for their nails.
25. Where do we get Color beads? How do they produce Color Beads?
Color beads are nothing but artificial beads. They are available in cities like Delhi, Hyderabad and Mumbai. These beads are made up of glass, plastic and fiber.
26. Karimani beads are available in variety. What is the reason behind its multiple designs?
Normally, Black Beads are known as Karimani Beads. Majority of the times these Beads are being imported from abroad. Crystal Beads, Gun Metals are being imported from Austria. Therefore, the imported Karimani Beads are costlier compared to indigenous Karimani Beads.
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